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The Sri Lankan menu will be far superior in freshness and in execution, and even the most basic eatery is likely to offer a satisfying Sri Lankan breakfast.In Colombo, try Senkade for basic, cheap and good Sri Lankan buffet-style food. Yes, you should skip the ‘English’ breakfasts that most restaurants churn out.

Upali’s in Colombo makes a nice introduction to rice-and-curry; you can even get one to go wrapped in banana leaf.Plan small stages in advance, especially if you plan to take trains.There are trains between main cities in each province, but it’s not an extensive network, and the south and east are sparsely covered.But do try the Sri Lanka/British fusion of ‘deviled’ chicken and seafood, and the Sri Lankan-Chinese staple, hot butter cuttlefish: rings of batter-fried cuttlefish, fried in butter and tossed with local spices. The fighting may be over, but things aren’t really back to normal.The civil war ended in 2009, when the Sri Lankan army’s final offensive wiped out the LTTE, the brutal militant group (and pioneers of suicide attacks) fighting for an autonomous state in the north and east.

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Outside of the capital, Colombo, and the established stomping grounds of the cultural triangle or surf-lined coasts, it can be hard to find a happy medium between ultra-basic guesthouses and luxury hotels.

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